Some places need little introduction among cyclists. Bormio is one of them. Nestled in the Italian Alps, this medieval town has long been associated with some of cycling’s most iconic climbs, with the Stelvio, Gavia and Mortirolo all within easy reach. Yet beyond these familiar names lies an entire region waiting to be discovered. Stelvio Epic Rides gives us the perfect excuse to extend our stay.

To explore the area’s distinctive character in greater depth, we joined the organizers for four days, setting out to discover both its hidden gems and its challenges: ten climbs combining legendary passes with far less-travelled roads that show why this corner of Lombardy deserves more than a fleeting visit.

Food, wine and legends

After skirting Lake Como and heading into Valtellina, Nebbiolo vines climb the steep mountain slopes, reminding us just how closely the landscape and local traditions are intertwined. Between a wine tasting and our first plate of pizzoccheri, the valley’s traditional buckwheat pasta, we discover a side of the Alps that has little to do with cycling, yet makes the journey worthwhile in its own right.

Our first day on the bike began with a climb that speaks for itself. On certain days of the year, Stelvio National Park closes the road to motorised traffic, allowing cyclists to enjoy the ascent under exceptional conditions. Although it wasn’t our first time riding the Stelvio, the experience surprised us all over again. This time, we were even more at the heart of the action, surrounded by an atmosphere that felt much more like a celebration than a sport event.

The other side of the mountain

If the Stelvio, approached from any of its three paved sides, is one of those climbs every cyclist should tackle at least once in their lifetime, its gravel counterpart takes things to another level. The so-called IV Stelvio intimidated us before we had even started. Offering a completely different perspective, the route packs nearly 2,000 metres of elevation gain into just under 20 kilometres of climbing, crossing alpine terrain that demands far more than strong legs and aerobic fitness.

We set off on a Colnago G4-X fitted with 40 mm tyres, a choice we would soon discover wasn’t quite suited to the terrain ahead. There were sections of singletrack, plenty of rocks and some seriously exposed passages that forced us to dismount time and again. In places, the drop below commanded considerable respect, making this a route decidedly unsuitable for anyone with a fear of heights. Elsewhere, riding simply ceased to be an option.

But it would be unfair to define the experience solely by its difficulty. The route winds through spectacular high-alpine scenery and remnants of the First World War, including old trenches that serve as a reminder of the strategic importance of these mountains.

The descent offered little respite either: technical, rocky and demanding. By the time we finally made it back to Bormio for lunch, our legs were more than ready for a break. Fortunately, the afternoon brought a more relaxed way to discover the region, this time from the thermal waters of Bagni Vecchi. It’s hard to imagine a better way to end such a demanding day.

Efforts richly rewarded

Our final ride took us back onto the tarmac, this time heading for Passo di Gavia. If the Stelvio impresses with its tornanti, the Gavia captivates us with its wild character. Despite sitting at a lower elevation, the high-mountain atmosphere somehow feels even more intense. The surroundings seem more remote, and there are far fewer cyclists around. It’s also colder that morning, heightening the sense of isolation. At the summit, a hot apple strudel proved the perfect reward as we waited for the rest of the group to reach the top.

The day still had one last surprise in store. In Santa Caterina Valfurva, we turned off towards Strada Forni, a climb of barely four kilometres. But what a climb. An average gradient of 13% led us to the mountain refuge, where a hearty spread of traditional local dishes awaited. There was nothing for it but to suffer a little longer.

We didn’t complete all the climbs listed by the Tourist Office, which would have allowed us to complete the challenge and qualify for various commemorative gifts. Still, before heading home, we decided to take a packet of pizzoccheri with us, a small reminder of a region we felt we had come to know beyond its roads. The Stelvio, Gavia and Mortirolo would undoubtedly be reason enough to visit Bormio, but this Italian town has many more stories to tell.